surf riding

25Mar08

at some point, we all have to make the decision whether to remain safe and comfortable in the seat we know – secured by fear – or become a full participant in life as its offered.

pegsurf.jpgLast week, I joined the many surf riders. Awkwardly for sure, I paddled out on my board to the place I had always longed to be. I loved feeling the swell of waves beneath me, and the impending excitement as larger sets would build in the distance, rolling closer and closer. I certainly missed many of those swells that should have been mine. I took my fair share of tumbles as well. But all that was forgotten once I was up, sliding into that perfect wave all my own – completely exhilarated by the ride. And in the end – eager to do it all over again.

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Tags: facing fear, peggy mulqueen, yoga surfing